Chapter Twenty:
Railroad Towns
"Nottingham.
Incorporated.
Population 3,000.
L. S. & M. S. storage yards;
high school and excellent system;
three churches.
Good residence and manufacturing site."
—Letterhead of Frank A. Bowman, Publisher, The Nottingham Citizen, circa 1905
Tracts 14 and 15 of Euclid Township, over 2,000 acres of the central section of the lake plain with the last two miles of Euclid Creek at its heart, became the property of Connecticut Land Company shareholders William Ely and Martin Kellogg in 1800, when time ran out for the surveyors of General Cleaveland's 1796 expedition to the Western Reserve to meet their end of the bargain. In the half century that followed the area filled with Dilles and Days, Crosiers and Thorpes.
In 1851, Amasa Stone built the Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula Railroad. It passed through Doan's Corners and East Cleveland Township stations before reaching its third stop, scarcely more than a platform and a siding with a small freight and passenger depot just before the single arch stone bridge over Euclid Creek. Over the next 20 years a small collection of shops and houses conglomerated around it.
*
One December evening in 1865 a few men representing the employees of the Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula Railroad surprised one of their bosses at his home with a silver coffee service, a Christmas gift engraved with the message "Presented to Henry Nottingham by his Friends and the Employees of the C. & A. R. R." The brief mention of the honor appeared in the Cleveland True Democrat newspaper, and the writer of the notice commented: "... it must readily be seen that no higher compliment could be paid Mr. Nottingham than this presentation, for the reason that he has shown his superiority as a strict disciplinarian, and yet was able to be so and at the same time retain the respect and esteem of those under him."
For 13 years Henry Nottingham served as the Superintendent of the Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula, then for 11 more with the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern after that Road acquired the CP&A.
Born on April 9, 1817, Henry Nottingham grew up poor on his father's farm in Columbia County, New York, in the Hudson Valley. His journey west to Ohio started young and progressed in phases, beginning with an early job as a stagecoach driver. From there he moved on to work on the Erie Canal where he rose to be captain of a packet boat. At the age of 23 he married Mary Jane Hathaway of Palmyra, New York (the birthplace of the Mormon movement, coincidentally), perhaps meeting her on one of his trips along the canal. Eventually he took a job at the end of the line in Buffalo on a lake steamer, which subsequently led him onto another steamer owned by the Erie Railroad. This connection got him into the railroad business, and his meandering career took him down the lakeshore to Erie, Pennsylvania, where he worked as a station agent before coming on with Amasa Stone's Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula in 1856.
"He was a man of cheerful spirit, with a pleasant smile for everyone... He was never so well satisfied or manifestly happy as when in the society of his family," one contemporary newspaper wrote. He and his wife never had any children of their own, but adopted a daughter, Adella. Other accounts remembered Nottingham as kind, charitable—perhaps he recalled his own unpretentious origins—and "especially generous to all his employees." The little independent information available seems to bear this assertion out, for when the time came to name the first town outside of Cleveland along the LS&MS line to honor one of the executives of the company, Henry Nottingham beat out his own bosses Amasa Stone and Chief Engineer Charles Collins. The people of the village liked Henry Nottingham.
Throughout the 1850s, the area around the Euclid depot was simply known as Euclid Depot. After the Civil War Euclid Depot came to be known as Nottingham Station, and when the locale around it became sufficiently populous to warrant incorporation as a village, the inhabitants selected the name of Nottingham. The county gave its blessing, and the Village of Nottingham, Ohio, was created from the central lake plain of Euclid Township on November 5, 1873.
*
"Collinwood.
Incorporated.
Population 10,000.
On Lake Erie, nine miles from Cleveland;
largest railway shops in the world,
and terminal of the eastern and western divisions of L. S. & M. S. R'y.
Best schools and school system in Northern Ohio."
—Letterhead of Frank A. Bowman, Publisher, The Collinwood Citizen, circa 1905
Following the collapse of the agreement between the 1796 surveyors and the Connecticut Land Company, Tract 16 of Township No. 8 in the 11th Range, a parcel of 1,088 acres on the lake plain in the northwest corner of the township, reverted to the company, and into the hands of shareholder Nehemiah Hubbard. In the half century that followed the area filled with Ruples, Adamses, Moseses, and McIlraths.
For two generations of American settlement not very much changed there, until 1848 when the new East Cleveland Township sheared off much of the western half of Euclid Township and divided what had been Tract 16 nearly in two. The administrative adjustment probably did not cause much in the way of outwardly visible effects in the neighborhood. But just two years later construction of the Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula Railroad began, the event which more than any other would shape and define the area, its development, its future.
The CP&A opened for business in the fall of 1851. For more than 20 years the district straddling the border between the old Euclid and the new East Cleveland Townships on the plain of Lake Erie provided no more for it than a right of way where passengers traveling to and from the quickly growing City of Cleveland could enjoy bucolic tableaus of proliferating vineyards from the windows of their coaches. The Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railroad gained control of Amasa Stone's Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula in 1869, and the new company soon began to purchase additional land in the area on either side of its tracks near their crossing at Nine Mile Creek.
The LS&MS had chosen the place for a major rail repair and switching center. In 1873 work began on a brick roundhouse and affiliated repair shops for steam locomotives. The facilities included a machine shop containing an engine room and blacksmith shop, and offices on the second floor. On the south side of the tracks the company built a huge freight transfer yard, and on the north side an impressive stockyard, eventually containing over 120 miles of track. It became one of the principal switch points for the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern, attracting workers from around the country and eventually the world. Within a decade nearly 1,500 people lived in the area around the LS&MS shops and yards, which had become the nucleus around which the next village of Euclid Township would grow. Within a year of the start of construction, over 500 employees including firemen, brakemen, engineers and conductors worked in and around the rail yards servicing and tending to the 72 freight trains which passed into and out of them every day.
Local memory recalls one of the early names of this part of Euclid Township as Frogsville, and suggests this appellation arose from an infestation of frogs in the shore bogs that covered the lake plain prior to its agricultural development. However, another kind of "frog" is a device that allows the wheels of a train to cross over an intersecting rail. The LS&MS yards would have contained thousands of these kinds of frogs, and the term would have been familiar in a small village where the railroad permeated the lives of absolutely everyone. The people of northwest Euclid Township probably did call the area Frogsville at one point, but a different frog most likely overran it. By 1874, though, the railroad employees of the area had taken to calling their expanding hamlet after another one of their bosses, the LS&MS Road's Chief Engineer, Charles Collins, and the growing rail center was known as Collinsville.
*
Charles Collins grew up in "Richmond," New York, probably Staten Island, in "an old and highly respected family." This and the fact that he later attended college in the mid-19th century suggests that, even before his affiliation with the railroads, he came from some wealth, even if relatively modest. His mother was remembered to be a "praying" woman, and her influence was credited for Collins having "manifested a high moral sentiment" throughout his adult life. "His was of a gentle, sensitive nature," one writer noted of Charles Collins, "and his profession [he] carried to its utmost perfection and success." Perhaps Collins' religious mother instilled in him an overdeveloped sense of personal responsibility. For the majority of his life, however, it manifested itself positively, in careful competence and close personal attention to those things which came under his charge.
Collins studied engineering at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, near Albany, New York, and began his career soon after graduation on the Boston & Albany Railroad. He came to Ohio in 1849 to oversee the surveys for the Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati & Indianapolis Railroad, under construction at that time by Amasa Stone's company, Harbach, Stone and Witt. Collins came to work on the Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula in 1851 and following the CP&A's purchase by the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern and soon rose to the post of Chief Engineer in the newly consolidated company, a technical position involving the design, construction and maintenance oversight of the numerous machines and properties owned by the railroad, a duty he took seriously. He married an Ashtabula woman, Mary Harmon, in 1856, and they kept a home there and another in Cleveland. For several years he lived an apparently happy life, working in his chosen profession, earning a very good living, and enjoying the respect of his peers and the role of a leader in his company and community.
In 1863 Amasa Stone put up his all-iron Howe truss bridge over the Ashtabula River. Thirteen years later the bridge failed, killing and maiming nearly 150 people in the "Ashtabula Horror" of 1876. The event affected Charles Collins deeply. An Ashtabula resident himself, he wept the moment he arrived and apprehended the twisted scene, then labored mightily following the crash to aid the injured then to restore service on the line, responsibilities he saw to so intensely that he neither slept nor ate for days. The stress of the event and the weeks that followed worked on Collins' mental state.
Collins concluded testimony before the committee investigating the disaster on Monday, January 12, 1877, and that same day offered his resignation to the board of the LS&MS, which they rejected. His assistant, Mr. I.C. Brewer, was with Collins during the nights immediately following his proffered resignation and later stated that he "was surprised at the alarming state into which [Collins'] mind had fallen."
Wednesday evening, January 14, Collins retired to his Cleveland home on St. Clair Street. He had an inspection tour scheduled for the following day, and in his fastidious manner had his traveling bag carefully packed to be ready when he awoke. Before bed he wrote a letter to his wife and, according to his custom, carefully laid out his clothes for the morning.
But Collins failed to appear for work the next day. Brewer concluded that his troubled boss went home to his Ashtabula house for a much needed rest. Two days later, however, Brewer learned that Collins was not in Ashtabula, and had not been there all that week. Given the circumstances, the assistant grew alarmed, and went looking for Collins at St. Clair Street in Cleveland, where he found him in his bed. In exhaustion, guilt and grief, Charles Collins had shot himself.
The papers printed news of the death, and the way it came about, widely. The denizens of Collinsville grew skittish, maybe a bit superstitious, about calling their settlement after a man who had taken his own life. But perhaps for convenience and habit's sake they did not wish to change it altogether, so they only modified it, and within two years of Collins' death the name "Collinwood" could already be found attached to the area. Its inhabitants petitioned for incorporation under the name in 1883, and on December 21 of that year the Cuyahoga County Commissioners approved the request. Thus the Village of Collinwood, Ohio, began its short—and troubled—life.
*
Amasa Stone had needed labor to build his railroad, and he found it in a tiny Alpine Adriatic province of the Austrian Empire known as Carniola. Ethnically Slovenian, the region had been dominated by Hapsburg monarchs since the 14th century. But in 1848, just as Harbach, Stone and Witt were making surveys and securing investors for the CP&A, revolution began in France and swept across central Europe. The Austrians eventually put down the revolt in the Slovenian lands, but emerged from the upheavals weakened, and they could not re-assert control without concessions. The 1848 Revolutions brought an end to serfdom for the Slovenians, but the revolt was not an unalloyed blessing. Challenging imperial control created a power vacuum which led to a series of local grabs for supremacy and opportunistic foreign invasions which raged constantly and for years. Newly unbound from their feudal manors, many Slovenians decided to abandon the ancient strife of the Balkans in hope of a better life in America. Many came to northern Ohio. Rarely with anything more to sell than their labor, they pushed the train tracks east from Cleveland up the Lake Erie shore.
In Euclid Township, after the road had been laid, the immigrants settled along its course to serve it, rapidly swelling the populations of Collinwood and Nottingham and forever changing the ethnic makeup of the lake plain. They brought new language, new food, new dress. They were European, not in some ancestral past like the first settlers of Euclid Township, but actually personally from Europe. They were misunderstood, literally.
In the official imperial German of the Austrian Hapsburgs, the name for Carniola was Krain, and the Slovenians who lived in Krain were known as Krainers. The grandchildren of the Yankee settlers of Euclid Township corrupted the appellation, and called these newcomers "Greiners."
In addition to strong backs and hard hands, the Slovenian Greiners brought to Euclid Township the Roman Catholic faith of their Hapsburg Emperor, Franz Joseph. In the decades that followed the completion of the railroad, Catholic immigration made the northwest section of Euclid Township into a veritable Roman enclave. "They were mostly new and from the old country," one Catholic newspaper wrote of the Catholics of Euclid Township at the end of the 19th century, "trying laboriously and industriously in poverty and privations to make a living for the present and some provision for the future." For several years the Catholics of Euclid Township visited Cleveland, some ten to fifteen miles distant, to attend mass, but within a few years of the completion of the railroad petitioned the Cleveland diocese for a pastor of their own.
"In the fall of 1860, at the request of some of the Catholic citizens of Euclid, Rd [Edward] Hannin, a priest at that time attached to the Cathedral of Cleveland, was commissioned by Rt Rd [Amadeus] Rappe, Bishop of the Diocese of Cleveland, to visit Euclid and its neighborhood, and to celebrate mass twice a month on Sunday in some Catholic house of the same place for the benefit of the Catholic families living in that vicinity... On the eight day of Jany [1861] an attempt was made to obtain a suitable lot near the depot, but the citizens who had available land refused to sell them on account of their hostility to Catholicity. At last Chas. Moses, more liberally minded, offered on the Chardon Road half way between Euclid Village and the St. Clair Road to sell to the Catholics an acre lot for the consideration of $100..."
Construction on a frame church began on Easter Monday, 1861, and, upon completion in the summer, Saint Paul was chosen to be its patron. Having founded and built the new church, Father Hannin found new duties at the main cathedral in Cleveland, and had to turn the nascent Saint Paul's over to the charge of Father Francis Salaun, who ministered to the congregation only a few years until ill health forced him into retirement in August of 1864. Replacing Salaun came Father Anthony Martin, a native of France who had only been in the United States a few years, whom Bishop Rappe ordered to permanent residence in Euclid as pastor of Saint Paul's in August 1865. Father Martin immediately purchased additional land for a cemetery adjoining the church, followed shortly by the beginning of a parochial school for the Catholic families of his parish, which opened on January 7, 1867.
A few years later nuns of the Ursuline order moved their boarding and day school for girls from its original quarters in Cleveland out to rural Euclid Township, purchasing the lakefront estate of George Gilbert on the west bank of the mouth of Euclid Creek in the summer of 1874. Four years later, Villa Angela, named for the order's 15th century Italian founder, Saint Angela Merici, opened at the location it then occupied for more than 100 years. The Ursulines bought an additional 27 acres adjoining the property in 1886, and there established a school for boys they christened Saint Joseph's Seminary.
*
"Greiner Shooting Affray.
One Man in the Hospital and One in Village Jail
as the Result of Early Morning Row.
As the finale of an all-night carousal in a Greiner saloon on Collins Avenue Sunday night, Martin Crovic is in village lockup, charged with shooting to kill, while his victim, Louis Costle, lies in a precarious condition at Charity Hospital with two bullet wounds, one on his left side and one on his wrist. Officers McCoy and Kulo were attracted to the saloon of Frank Valent on Collins Avenue about 1:15 Monday morning, in front of which two Greiners were engaged in a row. Several pistol shots were heard by the officers as they hurried to the scene and arrived in time to capture the man who did the shooting and to convey the injured one to the office of Dr. Williams where his wounds were dressed and later removed to the hospital in Shepard Company's ambulance. The Greiner who did the shooting is detained in jail."
—The Collinwood Citizen, January 26, 1906
Vice in the villages offset the Catholic piety in the countryside. Despite the presence of peaceful vineyards, quiet lakefront resorts, and Mother Church, most of Nottingham was a rough, industrial Great Lakes railroad town of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, one filled with immigrants from unfamiliar countries doing hazardous, uncomfortable work. It could at times be a miserable place. With misery often comes despair, and the human proclivity toward attempts to escape them, or at least find distraction. Drunkenness, theft and violence abounded in Nottingham Village. Alongside the stables and meat markets lining its unpaved streets a railroad workman could relieve himself of his pay in a variety of saloons, gambling houses and brothels. Salacious stories of death and calamity peppered the pages of the local Republican organ, the Nottingham Citizen.
One headline from 1900:
"Suicided!
Louis Vermeer Ends His Life in a Tragic Manner
at Nottingham Sunday Morning Last.
He was Despondent.
His Last Requests Show the Act was Premeditated.
Wanted His Body Sold to Pay His Debts."
A 1902 advertisement hawked:
"Bottled Beer, for Family use. Promptly Delivered.
Also fine line Pure Liquors, for medicinal purposes.
Phone: Shore 8. John Schimmelmann, Dille St. Nottingham"
Another example comes in the form of a handwritten note to the village hall from an angry denizen which survives in the Archives of the City of Cleveland. Its capitalizations and spellings are preserved:
"St. Clair Hospital
Cleveland O
9.24.08
to whom this may concern, having been shot down on the 31th day of August 1908 in the town of Nottingham in this county, and will not be able to leave for some time to come, I am anxious to no who is going to pay this bill, the town or the cur that shot me. please let me no by return mail
Daniel Stubenrauch
st Clair Hospital
Cleveland Ohio"
The Nottingham Village council struggled to stay ahead of the sin in their crowded little town. One such decree preserved in the City of Cleveland Archives is typical of their efforts:
"An ordinance to punish improper persons found within the Village of Nottingham.
Be it ordained by the Council of the Village of Nottingham:
Section 1—No common street beggar, common prostitute, habitual disturber of the peace, known pickpocket, gambler, burglar, thief, watch stuffer, ball game player, person or persons who practice any trick, game or device with the intent to swindle, no person who abuses his family, or suspicious person who can give no reasonable account of himself, shall be found within the limits of the Village of Nottingham.
Section 2—Any person loitering about in any bar room, dram shop, gambling house, house of ill fame, or wandering about the streets, either by day or night, without any lawful means of support, and without being able to give any reasonable account of himself, or of property found in his possession, or obtains his living by criminal means and practices, or is the companion and associate of criminals and dissolute persons, shall be deemed and held to be a suspicious person.
Section 3—And person violating any provision of section one of this ordinance shall, on conviction thereof, be fined in any sum not less than Five Dollars nor more than Fifty Dollars.
Signed,
H.L. Smith, Mayor
August, 1900"
Similar glimpses of life in early 20th century Nottingham can be seen in other laws:
"It shall be unlawful for any person to bathe in the waters of Lake Erie, or in any other body of water within the limits of the Village of Nottingham, in a naked state, or with his person so much exposed as to make an indecent exposure of the body publicly or he may be publicly seen, between the hours of seven o'clock A.M. and eight o'clock P.M."
"It shall be unlawful for any person over fourteen years of age willfully to make any indecent exposure of his or her person in any public place... within the Village of Nottingham where there are other persons to be annoyed or offended thereby."
"To punish disturbers of the good order and quiet of the Village of Nottingham... No person shall disturb the good order and quiet of the Village of Nottingham, by clamor and noise in the night season, by intoxication, drunkenness, fighting, using obscene profane language in the streets or other public places, to the annoyance of the citizens, or otherwise violate the public peace by indecent and disorderly conduct, or by lewd and lascivious behavior."
*
In April 1888, G. G. Mapes took the oath of office to become the new mayor of Collinwood Village. His official inaugural address included an invitation to any councilman who had anything to say to him to "get up and say it, then sit down. If not, he would knock him down."
If the thrills in Collinwood were cheap, so could life be there, as illustrated in one 1906 story from the Collinwood Citizen: One day resident Alex Potter, a saloon keeper who'd lost his leg several years earlier, almost surely working on the murderously dangerous railroad, and who had recently been told he required further surgery which he could not afford, pulled a gun from behind his bar, said, "Here goes, boys!" and shot himself in the head in front of a room full of startled patrons.
At least one upstanding citizen complained publicly of the pervasive mayhem:
"Notice to Saloon Keepers
I notice, on Sunday in particular, that there are more drunks on our streets on that particular day than any week day, and not only that, they are men that, if a saloon keeper sold to them on a week day, he ought to be ashamed of himself, much more on a Sunday. Now, this thing has gone its limit. Now, if the saloon keepers have not got pride and respect enough for the better class of their patrons and the people of the village, and to respect the Sabbath day, we will be obliged to do it for them, and to the point, for we are not going to have a lot of soaks and bums roaming our streets, intoxicated, on Sunday in particular, or on any other day. This means you. Look out, saloon keepers, have some respect for your business.
Collinwood, O
C W Godwin"
In response to such sentiments the Collinwood Village Council busied itself up to and well past the dawn of the new century with resolutions prohibiting disorderliness on the Sabbath, concealed weapons, fireworks, billiard tables, slot machines, nine pin alleys, ten pin alleys, ale houses, and addressing the newfangled menace of the bicycle. They passed ordinances "to punish Vagrants, Beggars, Habitual Offenders and Suspicious Characters" and "to suppress disorderly houses and houses of ill fame." They prohibited "any pistol, Bowie knife, dirk, revolver, razor, knuckles or any dangerous or deadly weapon concealed," along with "any books, papers, or periodicals of an obscene or immoral nature that tend to corrupt the minds of the young." None if it seemed to work, and Collinwood's tiny police force could not cope with the chaos. The Chief of Police, Charles McIlrath (the great great grandson of Thomas McIlrath of the five young men of 1803!), once accidentally shot himself with his own revolver when the weapon dropped to the floor as he reached into his pocket for a handkerchief.
*
Amidst and despite the tumult, the town and the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern continued to grow. Throughout 1902 the railroad expanded its Collinwood yards, making the depot the center of supply for its entire line. In addition to the construction of a massive new storehouse served by the innovative technologies of the elevator and the telephone, the company added large new blacksmith shops, machine shops, repair shops, and a headquarters for the master mechanic and master car builder to its facilities, making the Village of Collinwood, Ohio, one of the largest rail centers in the country. The investment proved to be significant in the course of the history of Euclid Township. This heavy industrial complex, conveniently served by rail lines, pulled new manufacturing plants into its orbit, factories accreting then creeping east throughout the decades up to the Second World War, until the area between the two railroad lines on the lake plain of the old Euclid Township became one of the most heavily industrialized spaces on Earth. But that remained in the future. For the moment farms and vineyards still surrounded the rail yards in 1902. Summer vacation resorts for wealthy Clevelanders still dotted the lakeshore. And still others had their eyes on the little railroad towns in old Euclid Township.
*
French traders, the British Crown, George Washington, and the Connecticut Land Company all recognized the mouth of the Cuyahoga River as the key location on the south shore of Lake Erie. The company dispatched Moses Cleaveland there in 1796 to stake out a New England town on the river's east bank to be the capital of their Western colony of New Connecticut. Cleaveland Village languished for a time, but then began to grow at a rapid pace beginning with the opening of the first sections of the Ohio and Erie Canal in 1827, then as a center of industry, which took off during the Civil War, and exploded after. Through the 19th century the City of Cleveland expanded economically, in human numbers, and in land mass, often accomplishing all three with a single stroke: municipal annexation.
Cleveland's first annexation was Ohio City in 1854. For the next half century the city ate up parts and former parts of the townships of Brooklyn, Newburgh, Independence, and East Cleveland. The 1905 annexation of the former East Cleveland Township village of Glenville brought the boundaries of the city to the western doorstep of the original 1796 border of Euclid.
The Forest City got fat, all the way to the eve of the Great Depression of the 1930s, first by incorporating the unincorporated portions of Cleaveland Township, then by eating its smaller neighbors—Ohio City, Corlett, Newburgh, Brooklyn in 1905, Glenville just west of Collinwood the same year, plus others, and parts of others, and the question of joining Cleveland occupied the village fathers of Collinwood for at least a decade.
These annexations were not purely grabs for size and hegemony on Cleveland's part. The residents of the communities absorbed did get something. Larger metropolitan conglomerations brought economies of scale into play and smaller towns that joined larger ones often gained police and fire protection, schools, sewers, water and gas service, construction of new roads and the repair of old ones. For its part Cleveland gained prestige among American cities both in population and rate of growth, statistics it could use to attract new business, which would in turn spur even further growth, and, in theory at least, fuel a cycle of ever-increasing prosperity. Through annexation the downtown business elite also gained the opportunity to rein in what looked like an anarchy of outlying immigrant slums filled with liquor and crime, and to squelch obstreperous and obstructionist local governments whom they saw as standing in the way of progress.
In Cleveland's case the mergers were voluntary. Not so with some other American cities growing by annexation and consolidation in the late 19th century, like Philadelphia, San Francisco, Chicago and Baltimore, which gobbled up their smaller neighbors through acts of their state legislatures without asking the residents of the adjacent communities whether or not they cared for their towns to blink out of existence. The villages of Cuyahoga County at least were free to reject joining the city, as did the tony lakeshore community of Bratenahl, and the quiet former Euclid Township suburb of East Cleveland, which both said no and remain independent to this day.
Collinwood was mulling the costs and benefits of annexation to Cleveland as early as 1899, a year when the village was already farming out its jailing of prisoners and water contracts to the big neighboring city. But, publicly at least, Collinwood put up more of a fight against annexation than Nottingham later would.
"Now wouldn't that idea GRAB YOU, MR. COLLINWOODITE—" read one anti-annexation editorial in the Collinwood Citizen newspaper in the spring of 1907. "Collinwood would not only be a source of financial gain, but would help win for Cleveland a place as a large city. Not a bloomin' word about improvements. We may wallow in mud to our eyebrows and divil the care of Cleveland so long as her expansive ideas are satisfied. FOR COLLINWOOD'S TEN THOUSAND POPULATION AND ONE HALF MILLIONS VALUATION CLEVELAND OFFERS—WHAT—"
Decried another as the vote approached in the fall of 1909: "In all evidence the city of Cleveland wants Collinwood, wants East Cleveland, wants Lakewood, simply to swell its population figures in the next federal census and to reimburse a depleted treasury and a deficit that reaches way up in the millions."
Despite their public protestations, many, if not most, if not all, of the town leaders of Collinwood actually saw annexation to Cleveland as likely, even inevitable, and much of their opposition was just part of a campaign to secure the best possible terms for the village when the marriage finally occurred. The air of inevitability of the end of independent Collinwood also had another effect. It made the village leaders reluctant to invest in newer and more modern equipment for the town, which, after all, would only become property of the City of Cleveland in just a year or two. So why spend the money?
For that, and many other reasons combining, the rough railroad town of Collinwood, Ohio, was, in the first decade of the 20th century, ill-prepared to face, were one to occur, the unlikely event of a major disaster.
*
During its short existence the hamlet of Collinwood experienced extraordinary growth, with a rapid influx of immigrant labor nearly tripling the town's population in less than a decade. Ten thousand people lived in Collinwood in 1907, heavily immigrant, most of them employees of the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railroad. Many of those lived close by the yards and walked to work, their children walking to one of the three nearby schools in the village: Collinwood High, the Clark Avenue School south of the yards, or the Lake View School on the north side on Collamer Street. So quickly had the town grown that the board of education ordered overcrowded Lake View's auditorium and its third floor attic converted to classroom space to supplement the eight other rooms already filled beyond capacity at the beginning of the 1907-1908 school year. Three hundred sixty-six students enrolled that fall, under the tutelage of the school's nine teachers, all young single women from the community and nearby neighborhoods of Cleveland.
The morning of March 4, 1908, dawned clear but cold. Several accounts recalled it as an attractive day that made people eager for the approaching spring.
At approximately 9:30 a.m. the Lake View School's fire alarm sounded. Drills, quite prudently and responsibly, occurred frequently, and the alarm seemed routine. The students rose from their desks and lined up in neat rows to exit their classrooms.
But when the teachers opened the classroom doors they saw the halls filled with smoke, with flames already pouring from the stairway to the basement at the front of the building, they immediately realized the emergency was genuine.
The children on the first floor for the most part safely reached the lawn, benefiting from their proximity to the doors and the shortest lapse of time between alert and exit. The school had a fire escape and the pupils in the single classroom on the third floor also reached safety.
The escape route from the second floor led down a staircase, then required a turn around a corner to exit at the back of the building. Coming down those stairs some of the youngsters, with their fellows crowding behind, tripped, and a pile-up began, blocking the way. The blaze spread quickly, and by that time had already engulfed the front of the building. The order of the evacuation started to break down. Some students jumped over the banister and rushed toward open rear doors. The teachers soon lost control of the situation and the escape became a panic.
The wide hallways of the first floor of the Lake View School narrowed at the vestibule between the inner and outer doors to a width of just over five feet. The first few students who dashed through them made it outside to safety, but behind them some of their classmates stumbled in the narrow opening. Flames were beginning to engulf the building, and frantic children tried to rush over, and more tripped, then more, and the portal soon became blocked with bodies. Others tried to climb over the jam, stumbled as well, and became trapped themselves. The stack of children grew to ten feet in height, crushing and suffocating those at the bottom and blocking the only exit for those trapped behind it, with the smoke and flames in the building still spreading, uncontrolled.
When they heard the alarm and saw smoke rising from the school, some mothers living in the neighboring houses rushed to the scene. The horror of what they found strains comprehension. At the blocked rear entrance, children trapped in the pile struggled to free themselves, screaming in their ever-growing terror. A few of the women who'd come arrived to see their own boys and girls trapped, with arms outstretched, and begging them for help.
"I never can forget that scene," witness Frank Dorn later said. "They all lay face downward, tier upon tier, their little arms extended toward us and waving frantically. Their faces were turned up towards us and they screamed pitifully."
The delirious women pulled on arms and hands, but could not budge even one child from the deadly mass. Helpless, the frantic mothers grasped their children's hands, kissed them, spoke with them as flames closed in. Boys and girls trapped on the upper floors began jumping from the windows.
Meanwhile others tried desperately to help. One neighboring mother saw Collinwood's ramshackle fire brigade arrive without a ladder long enough to reach her son's second floor classroom. She hurried home and brought back her own ladder, placed it against the side of the building, and began to climb toward the blazing classroom herself before men restrained her. "Let me go!" she cried. "My boy is dying in there and I want to be with him!"
Alarms soon sounded at the nearby shops and rail yards as well. The Lake Shore employees dropped their tools and rushed to the scene. Wallace Upton, who lived next door to the school, rushed into the burning building and threw kids down to Lake Shore brakemen on the lawn below.
The village had no full-time professional firefighters, just a brigade of 20 volunteers. Several witnesses interviewed shortly after complained at how slowly the force responded that morning. They arrived at the rear entrance of the school just as the flames reached the children trapped in the pile. The terrified screams of those still alive at the bottom of the pile increased in pitch and fury as they began to burn. Frantic to save them, the firemen joined the local women trying to yank the children free. Even two men together could not pull a single child from the mass. In one case in their final frenzy the rescuers pulled so hard that they ripped the flesh from one child's arm. Flames crept up through the pile. And the screams reached a sickening crescendo as the children burned.
"The hair of most of the children was burned off," another witness said, "their clothes were afire; their faces, upturned, were glazed over by the furious blast of flame which poured over their heads, and, with hearts wrung with agony, we were forced back from the door and stood idly by as the little ones perished. It was awful. A terrible sight."
"We worked till the flames scorched us, and those at the top of the pile were ablaze," Frank Dorn told a Cleveland paper. "Then we had to fight back the women, half crazed, who surged about the door crying for their children."
The agonized cries faded to an even more dreadful silence, until just the crackle and hiss of the fire remained. The stunned adults who witnessed what had happened could not speak. Several women fainted and fell down in the mud. One elderly man dropped to his knees on the wet ground, raised his arms to the sky and cried, "Oh God, what have we done to deserve this—"
Lake View School, and the bodies of the children it contained, burned for three more hours.
*
Days passed before the dead could be counted. In the end 172 children, nearly half the school, died, crushed by their classmates, suffocated by smoke, burned. The oldest killed were 15, the youngest just five and a half. Nineteen were never found, just blackened bones in the ashes.
Third grade teacher Katherine Weiler perished with her class from the second floor. Grace Fiske was badly burned with her first graders and died at a nearby hospital later that morning. Also among the ashes lay the body of John Krajnyak, just a passer-by who saw the blaze and rushed in to help. Wallace Upton said, "I saw a man in the north room... He had covered his head with a coat. I thought nothing of the occurrence during the excitement of the fire but I do not recollect now that I saw the man come out." The coroner first presumed Krajnyak's badly burned adult-sized corpse to be that of one of the teachers, but once they had all been identified and accounted for the coroner matched the remains to the local man who'd gone missing that morning.
Twenty crews of horse-drawn ambulances worked from just after the disaster well into the night carrying away the injured, then the bodies of the dead. Two crews still worked at 9:00 that evening. "Never in all my life have I witnessed such horrible sights," ambulance driver R. G. Shepherd later said. "I have seen the effects of some terrible affairs, but this one was inexpressibly horrible."
The tragedy immediately overwhelmed Collinwood's handful of undertakers and the officials employed the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern's storehouse as a makeshift morgue. Police brought the parents of missing children through ten at a time to identify the young victims, some so badly burned they could only be recognized by their shoes, or a ring, or a monogram on a handkerchief. Stunned mothers and fathers shuffled along the long rows of small, blanket-draped remains, an occasional scream reverberating through the high rafters of the cold storehouse. The scene continued all night and through the next morning.
Few families in Collinwood escaped losing at least one child. Police Chief Charles McIlrath's own 13-year-old son, Hughie, was a student at the Lake View School. The chief witnessed his boy helping younger children down the fire escape. The young hero then went back into the burning building, and was not seen alive again.
Every door in town bore a mourning wreath veiled in white crepe. Funerals began two days after the fire, and Collinwood buried 50 small white coffins each day for three days. Businesses closed; work ceased in the Lake Shore yards. Many families who lost sons and daughters became "prostrated by grief," and a few devastated parents attempted suicide. One father, Leo Harvey, could not identify his missing seven-year-old son, Claude, at the Lake Shore morgue. "I want to throw myself beneath a train," he wept as friends led him away. March 4 that year was Ash Wednesday, a cruelly apropos fact not lost on the Slovenian Catholics of Collinwood. The school board ordered the Clark Avenue School and the high school closed until new fire escapes could be installed.
Morbid gawkers clogged the streets of Collinwood in the days that followed. Police from Cleveland arrived to bolster the village's inadequate force for crowd control and security at the temporary morgue. They also stood guard at the home of Fritz Hirter, the Lake View School's janitor, who, despite losing all three of his own children himself in the disaster, was widely suspected of having caused the fatal blaze, or at least having been negligent in preventing it. Hirter received numerous death threats and was slipped out of Collinwood for an undisclosed location on Cleveland's West Side.
News of the unspeakable tragedy spread rapidly via telegraph across the nation, and messages of grief and condolence poured back in. The U.S. House of Representatives passed a resolution expressing sympathy. The organization of survivors of the 1904 fire on the steamboat General Slocum, which burned on a pleasure cruise in the East River with the loss of over 1,000 lives from New York's immigrant German community, sent condolences as well. Prince Albert von Wurten and Baron Adolph von Felden traveled to Collinwood from the Austro-Hungarian Empire's embassy in Washington to attend memorial services as a gesture to their Slovenian countrymen. The representatives also met with Collinwood Mayor Westropp and offered funds to families who suffered in the disaster. The State of Ohio sent $25,000, and the village assumed the cost of burials for those—and there were many—who could not afford them.
The embers of Lake View had scarcely cooled when the investigation began. Though the construction of the school violated no existing laws, newer safety codes for fireproofing enacted after the building's opening in 1901 were in effect at the time of the tragedy. It had only two exits, the front and rear doors. When the front doors became blocked by flames it forced all of the students to the back, which contributed to the fatal bottleneck.
Investigators determined that the blaze started in the basement over the boiler. They theorized that if the boiler ran out of water that the pipes would have soon overheated to the point of igniting the basement staircase beneath the front of the building. In light of the quick spread of the conflagration and the rapidity with which it consumed the building they theorized that fire must have been burning inside the walls for some time before its discovery.
The key adult witness, school custodian Fritz Hirter, who lost two sons and daughter that morning, and was himself injured by burns, broke down and became insensible during his initial questioning. Twelve-year-old student Anna Neubert, who lost two siblings, said she saw a man in the basement working the knobs of the boiler "frantically" just before the alarm sounded, but she couldn't say for sure whether it was Hirter. On her way up from the basement she noticed smoke under the stairs. She turned around and reported it to Hirter who then activated the alarm. The janitor later claimed that the water in the boilers was indeed low, but not empty, that morning, and that the fire in the boiler was low as well, and that he always let it go out overnight. He said he was in the process of shoveling more coal into the cold boiler when Anna alerted him of the emergency. Hirter said he believed the blaze actually started in a closet underneath the front stairs. The closet opened into a boys' playroom and he said he sometimes found burnt matches there, presumably from the boys playing with them. He said he thought perhaps one of the boys in the adjacent basement playroom dropped a smoldering matchstick through one of the holes in the wall of the closet through which the steam pipes passed. A definitive explanation of the cause of the Lake View School fire was never determined.
A belief that inward-swinging doors caused the pile up and loss of life at the Lake View School has persisted for more than a century. "With reference to the story that the children could not get out because of a door swinging inward," the school building's architect, John Eisenman, later told reporters, "I can only say I never hung such a door. I am a crank on swinging doors on public buildings outward." Other public buildings in Cuyahoga County did have inward-swinging doors which were changed to outward-swinging ones shortly after the fire in direct response to the disaster which may have contributed to the idea.
On Monday, March 9, 1908, Collinwood laid the 19 children whose bodies remained unidentified to rest together in a large plot purchased by the village just inside the main Euclid Avenue gate of Lake View Cemetery in Cleveland, about two miles from the school. Also interred nearby were 131 of their classmates. Several others were buried in the Catholic cemetery at St. Paul's. At Lake View Cemetery ministers from various churches led thousands of mourners in prayers in English, German and Slovenian before a massive floral display arranged around Jesus' admonition to the apostles from the Gospel of Matthew: "Suffer the little children to come unto me."
*
Public resistance to annexation in Collinwood utterly evaporated after the Lake View School fire, the tragedy perhaps convincing some, where even Charles Collins' and Amasa Stone's suicides had not, that the village was cursed and better off defunct, even forgotten. Voters passed the ballot for annexation in November 1909, and in January 1910 Cleveland subsumed Collinwood's school system, took over the police department, and dissolved the volunteer fire brigade. Old Euclid Township's Adams Avenue became East 140th Street. Collins Street became Saranac Road.
Annexation reached Nottingham in 1912, where it faced considerably less resistance than it had in Collinwood previous to the fire, passing 507 for and only 30 against in the November election that year, after less than six months of negotiations. The opposition in Cleveland was likewise negligible, with 68,586 for versus 9,624 against. Cleveland absorbed Nottingham with the new year of 1913 and thus the defunct village came under the umbrella of police, fire and postal service from Cleveland's recently added Collinwood neighborhood district. "And here's hoping the people of Nottingham have made no mistake," the Nottingham Citizen editorialized. Like Collinwood, Cleveland changed Nottingham's street names, assigning them numbers and obliterating the history preserved in their appellations: Crosier Avenue became East 173rd Street and Moses Road East 176th. North Depot became Buffalo Avenue, South Depot became Syracuse. Nottingham Town Hall became a dance hall, destroyed, with so much of what remained of the Cleveland neighborhood of Nottingham, by the construction of the Lakeland Freeway in the 1960s.
*
Henry and Mary Jane Nottingham were personal friends of Col. Jack Casement, a fellow Northeast Ohio railroad man who became a towering figure in the construction of the first transcontinental railroad in the 1860s. Henry was Col. Casement's guest at the driving of the Golden Spike at Promontory, Utah, joining the nation together by rail on May 10, 1869. Jack Casement was from Painesville, and when the Nottinghams retired there in 1878 they lived the first three years in the Casements' home. Nottingham was warmly liked in Painesville, known on the streets of the town as "Uncle Henry." The couple eventually bought a house of their own on Erie Street, and by all accounts passed their golden years happily.
On a Friday in March 1892, the 75-year-old Nottingham went into Cleveland on business, staying at a Euclid Avenue hotel. He visited his daughter and her husband while in town, and on Sunday morning, March 7, not feeling well, returned to his room where he ordered in a light lunch. He was found dead on the floor there on Monday, his lunch from the day before half-eaten. Nottingham had suffered from fainting spells in the time leading up to his death and his family theorized that while not feeling well he had rested for a while in bed then fainted when he tried to rise, falling to the floor where he died. Mary Jane accompanied his remains to her family home in Palmyra, New York, and laid him to rest there in the village cemetery on Vienna Street. She joined him in 1902.
*
Charles Collins' family buried him in Ashtabula, in an impressive tomb in that city's Chestnut Grove Cemetery a few days after his death. Today the crypt stands, appropriately soot-stained in an old railroad town, just steps from the mournful black memorial marking the mass grave of the unknown dead of the Ashtabula Tragedy.
Rumors first appearing in 1878 that Collins did not take his own life but was murdered to cover up Amasa Stone's responsibility for the Ashtabula Disaster have recently resurfaced. These claims rest upon two examinations of a skull "certified" to be that of Charles Collins, although the respective reports contain no explanation of how the skull's provenance was certified or by whom. The examinations performed in New York almost a year and a half after Collins' burial in Ashtabula, describe a skull with the entrance wound of a bullet in the left side of the head, and noting that Collins was right handed, and the length of the revolver that fired the shot that killed him, concluded that he could not have pulled the trigger himself. The suspect origin of the skull examined in the summer of 1878 and a published account from 1877 drawn from the Ashtabula Telegraph newspaper, a source closer both physically and temporally to the facts, which describe Collins delivering his fatal shot through his mouth, with the bullet exiting the back of his head, all but dismiss these late-19th century conspiracy theories. The fastidiousness with which Collins approached his job, reports of his weeping at the scene of the tragedy, and being unable to eat or sleep following the disaster show a man deeply affected by the wreck in Ashtabula. His sensitive nature was common knowledge, and no one had trouble believing that it may have inspired a final rash act. Many did hold Stone responsible for the wreck and felt that he had escaped punishment for it. The 1878 reports that Collins did not kill himself, implying that he was murdered, may just have been attempts to blacken Stone's reputation and to force him to deal with his part in the tragedy.
The day the Lake View School burned Collinwood Village had $35,000 in its municipal fund available for additions to the bulging school, which it was holding on to pending the annexation negotiations. After the fire the village immediately set to work on construction of a new building directly adjacent to the site, later christened, for obvious reasons, the Memorial School. It was part of the Collinwood school system for just one year. A commemorative garden marks the spot at the corner of East 152nd Street and Lucknow Avenue in Cleveland where 172 children died on Ash Wednesday 1908.
Funds donated by children of the State of Ohio purchased a permanent memorial to the tragedy in Lake View Cemetery bearing the names of all the victims of the fire above the communal grave of the Lake View School's unidentified dead. It too stands today, right inside the front gate.
Fritz Hirter was cleared of wrongdoing, though many of the local parents continued to blame him for the deaths of their children. He went back to work at the nearby Clark Avenue School after he had recovered from his injuries, and then for the Cleveland system, which assumed control of the Collinwood Board of Education properties following annexation. Hirter died in 1958. He's also buried in Lake View Cemetery.
The descendants of the Slovenian immigrants who came from southeast Europe to Northeast Ohio to work in the yards of the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railroad would drift eastward across the remnants of Euclid Township and constitute one of the dominant cultural traditions in the villages and later neighborhoods of Collinwood and Nottingham and the City of Euclid. In addition to the Slovenians who came in the 19th and early 20th centuries, in the 1920s and 1930s the Nottingham neighborhood became home to immigrants from Italy, Croatia, Slovakia, Germany, Poland and Hungary. Lithuanian immigrants arrived in the 1960s, and African Americans in the 1990s.
The Ursulines' academy at Villa Angela evolved into a high school for girls, and remained such through the 1980s, when declining enrollments at both it and at the nearby Saint Joseph High School a mile to the east on East 185th Street prompted the Cleveland Catholic Diocese to merge the two schools and consolidate their operations. The new co-educational institution moved into the Saint Joseph building and became Villa Angela-Saint Joseph High School in 1989. The Cleveland Public Library system acquired Villa Angela's lakefront property on the west bank of Euclid Creek and the school's building now houses the Memorial-Nottingham branch of the Cleveland Public Library.
Nottingham's population trend has proved an encouraging anomaly among the communities of Euclid Township's lake plain. Though dropping nearly eight percent since peaking in 1960, Nottingham's numbers have hovered around 11,000 for twenty years. The figures are even more surprising considering the neighborhood's location, nestled between Collinwood and Euclid which have been hemorrhaging residents since the 1970s. As in the rest of the township, so-called White Flight appears to be at work in Nottingham, but unlike in the other communities, the new African American residents moving in are making up for the losses, and in the last decade of the 20th century were surpassing them.
Industry grew in Collinwood in the 19-teens and 20s and supplanted the railroads as the mainstay of life in the former village. The neighborhood filled with Italians and boomed during the Second World War. After, suburbs grew in the south end of Euclid Township and industry died in the north. The federal government built an interstate highway through the middle of it and the three together facilitated White Flight east and into the Heights when African Americans came in the 1960s. In the early 2000s the Black residents are leaving too.
Go drive around Collinwood, up St. Clair. It's tough, but sad. It's been that way for a long long time.
The information in Chapter Twenty is drawn from the following sources:
Books:
Bellamy, John Stark II. The Maniac in the Bushes. Gray & Company Publishers, 1997.
Cary, Ferdinand Ellsworth. Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway System and Representative Employees, A History of the Development of the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway, from its Inception, Together with Introductory and Supplemental Chapters, Tracking the Progress of Steam Railroad Transportation. Biographical Publishing Company, 1900.
Corts, Thomas E., ed. Bliss and Tragedy, The Ashtabula Railway Bridge Accident of 1876 and the Loss of P.P. Bliss. Sherman Oaks Books, 2003.
Dow, Burton Smith III. Amasa Stone, Jr.: His Triumph and Tragedy. Master’s Thesis. Western Reserve University, 1956.
Everett, Marshall. The Complete Story of the Collinwood School Disaster and how Such Horrors can be Prevented. N.G. Hamilton Publishing Company, 1908.
Harbach, Frederick. Report on the Preliminary Surveys for the Cleveland, Painesville and Ashtabula Rail Road Company. Sanford and Hayward’s Steam Press, 1850.
History of Ashtabula County, Ohio with Illustrations and Biographical Sketches of its Pioneers and Most Prominent Men. Williams Brothers, 1878.
Jackson, Kenneth. Crabgrass Frontier, The Suburbanization of the United States. Oxford University Press, 1985.
Johnson, Crisfield. History of Cuyahoga County Ohio. D. W. Ensign & Co., 1879.
Peet, Stephen P. The Ashtabula Disaster. J.S. Goodman, Louis Lloyd & Co., 1877.
Ursulines of Cleveland. Echoes of Jubilee: Ursuline Academy, Villa Angela. The Academy, 1903.
Maps and Atlases:
"Euclid Township 1802" Euclid Township 1802_Bound Volume Map, Bound Volume Maps Collection, WRHS archive, Cleveland, Ohio.
"Euclid, or Township No. 8 in the 11th Range of the C.W. Reserve" MS3122_79a_vol 1_82, Simon Perkins Papers, WRHS archive, Cleveland, Ohio.
Blackmore, Harris H. Map of Cuyahoga County, Ohio. Stoddard & Everett, 1852.
Hopkins, G.M. Map of Cuyahoga County, Ohio. S.H. Matthews, 1858.
Lake, D. J. ed., Atlas of Cuyahoga County, Ohio. Titus, Simmons & Titus, 1874.
Newspapers:
The Cleveland True Democrat
November 17, 1851
The Cleveland Leader
January 1, 1866
January 22, 1877
*March 5-10, 1908
The Painesville Telegraph
March 9, 1892
The Nottingham Citizen (WRHS)
March 23, 1900
June 13, 1902
June 27, 1902
August 15, 1902
The Collinwood Citizen (WRHS)
November 1, 1901
April 12, 1907
September 6, 1907
*March 12, 1908 (a very rare copy of the fire week issue, Euclid Historical Society, Euclid, O.)
October 14, 1909
November 7, 1912
November 21, 1912
The Citizen (WRHS)
June 2, 1905
The Cleveland Plain Dealer
*March 5, 1908
Archives of the Catholic Diocese of Cleveland, Cleveland, Ohio.
Manuscript Journals of Rev. Anthony Martin, Saint Paul's Church, Euclid, Ohio.
"An Account of the Establishment of a Catholic Congregation in Euclid, Cuyahoga, State of Ohio, Diocese of Cleveland, by Rd A. M. Martin."
"Saint Paul's Congregation, Euclid, Cuyahoga Co., Ohio 1861-80, by A.M. Martin."
Cleveland Public Library Archives
City of Cleveland Archives
Records, Ordinances and Resolutions, Villages of Nottingham and Collinwood
Record of the Establishment of Villages and Townships
Expert Consultation
Betsey Lewis, Deputy Town Clerk and Deputy Registrar, Town of Palmyra, New York
Encyclopedia of Cleveland History website
case.edu/ech
U.S. Census